Let's just start with a few statistics. The population density of Tokyo is 6,224 per square km and the population density of Sugar Land, TX is 2,434 per sq. km. The population density of the Shinjuku train station is 18,232 per sq km! My initial impression of Japan was shaped by this reality. So many people! Shinjuku Station was the first place we visited on our first morning in Tokyo following our 14-hour flight. We dove right into the deep end! We wandered the crowded halls of the station, with a wide-eyed lost look on our faces, for what seemed like an eternity. We wanted to get a Suica card (a multi-purpose card used for subways, buses, taxis and some trains...and convenience store purchases!) and find the subway to see the Meiji Jingu Shrine. After several "discussions" about where to go for the things we needed and finally successfully procuring them, we left the station for some much-needed fresh air with a feeling of accomplishment. How that many people can commute in relative silence and order, in an immaculately clean station is amazing!
We had two days in Tokyo before our daughter and her family arrived. On our first day we explored a bit of Tokyo, a drop in the bucket, and managed to walk over 11 miles. We saw the Meiji Jingu Shrine and beautiful grounds surrounding it. We happened upon a traditional wedding procession. We walked back to our hotel...long walk. We also visited the food floor of a nearby department store, it's a thing! We are talking world class food...chocolates, pastries, sushi, Kobe and Wagyu beef, bento boxes, all artistically presented and gorgeous! It was overwhelming between the amount of beautiful food and the number of people shopping! We took a quick nap before our 5 p.m. food tour. We love food tours and love taking a tour on our first day. We get a lay of the land and a bit of inside information. The food tour was perfect! I needed an education in Japanese food anyway. Boy did I get an education! 3 stops and at least 15 different foods plus drinks.
The beef...oh, the beef!
Lisa learns to drink sake... At this place they fill your glass until it overflows into the box exactly to the brink. The sake in the box is exactly enough for another glass once you finish the first one. Yikes!
Where sashimi is delicious and fresh grated wasabi is next level delicious!
I guess it is an iconic location.
The crowd parted and made way for the bridal party.
Entrance to the shrine. Every shrine has a well where you wash your hands before entering. Shrine or temple? Shrines are Shinto and Temples are Buddhist
Just a small display in the food floor.
The next day was spent catching a cold. We took the bus to a village near Mount Fuji, hoping to see Fuji in all its glory and to visit the village of Oshino Hakkai in the five lakes area. It is known for its crystal clear eight ponds throughout the village. Yes, it was a bit touristy! Still beautiful. Fuji was shrouded by clouds, and we just had to imagine it. We climbed the 400 steps to the Churieto Pagoda hoping the clouds would break and we would get that iconic view of Fuji but no luck, all we got was a good workout. We managed the bus, train, bus gauntlet and filled our day with some interesting sights and noodles! On the ride home I felt a tickle in my throat...that tickle took a couple of days to develop into a full blown cold. Merry Christmas to me!
Churieto Pagoda
Just pretend!
The water is as clear as glass!
Soba noodles to warm me up!
This concludes the adult portion of Japan. Once Kelly, Chris and the boys arrived we shifted to family mode. Family mode made us very glad we arrived a few days early! With some good sightseeing and sleep under our belt we were ready for the energy level to change.
First Impressions at a glance-
Looking back, I would say arriving in Tokyo was overwhelming for me. I thought I was prepared. I knew it was a huge city and had no aspirations to see all of it, but I did expect to be able to see more than we did. I expected to struggle with the language and believe me...I did. Seldom do we go to a country that I make no attempt to learn at least some of the language. Aside from "arigato" and politely bowing, I had nothing! Thank goodness the signs we needed had English subtitles...and we had Google translate!
The people are so quiet! No one talks on the train or the subway. There is not a low hum of conversation in the stores. They speak quietly, which was not good for my increasingly hard of hearing husband. I have a new role..."his ears". The streets are relatively quiet, many electric cars which are quiet and not many sirens.
Everyone wears black or navy...mind you it was winter and everyone was wearing a coat. At least all the neon lights at night brightened up the world. With our first couple of days being overcast, it initially seemed a dark and dreary place. Once the sun came out the world changed.
Everything is so neat and orderly! I really liked this. The food is artfully plated. The merchandise in the stores is beautifully displayed. Everything has an order and the order is followed.
Talk about artful plating!
Convenience stores...namely 7-11 and Lawsons. Not your mother's convenience stores. There was a 7-11 in our Tokyo hotel (they are everywhere), a nice upscale hotel, and it had everything! I love going in and just browsing. The prepared food section was extensive and yes, the egg salad sandwiches are epic. I also discovered another favorite sandwich, paper thin pork ham, cream cheese, cucumber and wasabi. True confession, I can't tell you how many quick snacks we consumed from 7-11. From breakfast to road snacks to quick lunch to wine...yes, wine.
My personal favorites.
Bowing. I still am not clear if I was supposed to bow back...but I did. There is something about a person bowing to you that makes you just want to return a bow. It is both a sign of respect and a sign of humility. It seems gentle and kind. I appreciate this. My heart warmed at every bow. A simple acknowledgement of the other. Something our culture could use a little more of.
And now I digress...the toilets! I had heard about Japanese toilets before we went. Let me just say, I am sold! First, in winter...heated seats! Even in public bathrooms, the toilets are clean, warm and include many wash and dry features. Go to a nice hotel room and wow! Lights, music, heat, wash, dry, and then sanitize after use. I still wonder what it is about a culture that puts such an emphasis on pottying. No arguments from me. I am a believer.
The food...well, that will have to be another post.
I will leave you with this little video of an iconic location to make a point. There are a lot of people here! Our last night before the kids arrived...we did the Shibuya Scramble!
