Sunday, May 29, 2022

Fifty Shades of Blue

We dusted the flour off our shoes and headed to Naples the next day, on the train.  In Naples, we rented a car and drove to Sorrento which only made us appreciate the train more.  On the way we stopped to see Herculaneum, another victim of Mt. Vesuvius in 79 AD similar to Pompeii but apparently a wealthier seaside city of around 5000 people.  It was well worth the stop and easy to access. Very well preserved and so amazing to see a slice of life long ago.  TJ and I have always wanted to stay in an Agriturismo on our travels and Rachel found this one for our stay.  It was amazing! I am ready to add this area to my Italian retreat.  The working olive and lemon farm and accommodation was run by a fellow, his wife (who was pregnant with #2) and his mother.  His parents ran it his entire life and now it is his.  We were their first guests of the season.  We were treated to a full breakfast each day and three course dinner each night.  Everything was delicious and he was so accommodating to our needs and wants, even as far as sharing his 3-year-old daughter's breakfast cereal with one of the boys.  I can't say enough about this experience.  The grounds, the rooms, the views...it was all too perfect.



The view was worth the climb!

One happy customer!

The lemon grove

Perfection!

What a special place!

Pretty sure the view of Capri in the window was not an accident!

Our private sitting area and a view of Capri.

Our main activity here was our boat ride to Capri.  We were blessed with blue skies and smooth water.  I had no idea what a boat person my son-in-law was, but this was his happy place.  It was definitely still the off season, as many/most shops were closed and there was a flurry of activity all over this island preparing shops, hotels and restaurants for the coming tourists.  I can only imagine what it is like in summer.  Idyllic is how I would describe Capri.  It is everything you imagine it to be, personified.  Breathtaking.  I could share hundreds of photos and still not do it justice.  Every cove provided another jaw dropping shade of blue.  I would have loved to swim in those waters, but wrapped in a sweater, a vest and a jacket left me feeling inappropriately dressed.  Someday.  Capri was a bucket list item I never thought I would have the chance to see and can say it lived up to its reputation.

All along the coast

How many colors of blue can you see?

Happiness is...a boat ride

Simply amazing

Coming into the marina

Capri

Why walk when you can all ride in a convertible taxi?

Note to self...come back in April or May.
Faraglioni, iconic Capri rock formations
We spent much too little time in Sorrento and the surrounding area.  Our goal was to show the boys some highlights of Italy and with so much history, scenery, geography it is hard to do an in-depth exploration of it all.  Shoot, I have been to Italy 4 times and still have so much more to explore!  Each time we go we vow to return and so far, we have.  Our hope is that after this trip the boys will too vow to return to Italy or some other equally fascinating country.  

It all seems so long ago, and honestly...it was!  A lot of water has passed under the bridge of life since this trip happened at the end of March.  Yes, I am a bit back logged on the blog.  Hang in there with me, I felt like I needed to close this chapter before starting a new one.  

Friday, May 6, 2022

Fun in Florence

  Four weeks out and I'm still here...icing my knee.  The good news is the crutches, and the "big black brace of torture" were out of business after 2 weeks!  The bad news is, I am still not supposed to walk as far as I want and feel like I am able.  Something about swelling, blah, blah, blah.  I miss my daily moving meditation fiercely!  Counting the days (I hope) or weeks (probably) until a 2- or 3-mile walk is my normal routine again!  So far, a slow mile, for which I am very thankful, is my max.  Range of motion has improved greatly; pain level is low...unless you count those 5 minutes at physical therapy spent on my stomach with a 3-pound weight strapped to my ankle straightening my leg.  All in all, making progress but apparently healing takes more than a strong will and hard work...it takes time.  Tick, tick, tick.

Meanwhile, back to Italy...we took the train from Rome to Florence.  This wasn't my first train ride in Europe, but it is our first trip to rely on public transit as our main transportation.  I may be a convert!  I was hesitant to give up having control of my own destiny but with 7 people it just seemed the most efficient.  I really like being able to stop in any interesting places along the way, but the train was very efficient, and that was important if we wanted to see as much as possible in the least amount of time.  No complaints!  

Time to journal and do a Sudoku or 10.

I have not been to Florence since 2008.  I forgot just how lovely it is.  I need to go back and maybe live my Tuscan dream someday.  With only 2 days there, we had an agenda...David, the Duomo, Ponte Vecchio, pizza and gelato.  We came, we saw, and we ate!  Our Airbnb was HUGE and conveniently located next door to a nice gelato shop, much to the boy's delight!  The location really could not have been better.  Of course, TJ and I had the bedroom at the back of the apartment, away from the street.  I hear from those staying in the bedrooms in the front, the noise from the "open until 4 a.m." bar across the street was constant.  I guess you really can't have it all.  But we came close.

Like I said, Huge!

Rachel in the noisy window for perspective.

Once we got settled in our huge apartment, we went about 4 doors down the street for lunch.  We were starving!  Glad we visited the place for lunch because as it turned out, they were closed for dinner...and the food was delicious!  First order of the afternoon was to see David at the Accademia Gallery which we had pre-purchased timed entry tickets, one of the advantages to come out of Covid...no standing in long lines to buy tickets.  On our way, since we had the time, we stopped in to tour the Basilica of Santa Croce which was between our apartment and the Accademia.  We were also very lucky that the piazza and the basilica were relatively empty. 

Funny thing, I can't count the number of times we found ourselves in churches with beautiful courtyards attached or in a beautiful piazza and I would find the boys, seated on a bench playing a number game with their hands.  I still do not know the name of the game (Chopsticks maybe?) or exactly how it is played, but they played it in countless amazing locations.  Who needs electronics when you have two hands?!

Monte Cassino 
Meanwhile, John is contemplating life after Italy.

Piazza Santa Croce

Basilica of Santa Croce courtyard

Florence did not disappoint.  David glowed in all of his marble glory.  The weather could not have been nicer, making everything more beautiful.  I managed to take a stroll along the river and caught the golden hour!  My daughter and her family climbed to the top of the Duomo for a rewarding view.  TJ and I walked to the top of Piazza Michaelangelo for our rewarding view.  We had dinner at a very local restaurant, no English spoken, and it was delicious!  The gelato next door got a couple visits from the boys.  

Because you can never see too many photos of this iconic bridge!

The icing on the cake...or the pizza pie, was our pizza and gelato making class.   You know how sometimes you book things online and then wonder if they will be as good as they look or if you will end up feeling like you got taken to the cleaners?  Leading up to the class I found myself feeling that way.  From the very nice medium sized bus that picked up our group of about 20 people and drove us into the hills outside the city to the aperitivos set out to greet us, to the science-based explanations along with entertaining commentary about making the pizza and the gelato, we were captivated.  The location of the farmhouse was classic Tuscany.  The staff, very professional and entertaining.  The wine...flowing.  The food, delicious.  They boys had a blast; their parents had a blast, and their grandparents had a blast!  Totally worth it!

Under the Tuscan Sun

Luigi was ready and waiting for us.

Mad scientists at work

hand crushing the tomatoes

Such a lovely facility!

The boys had so much fun,
 they even volunteered to help clean up!

So many choices of gelato.
One of each, please!

Grazie!

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