The Middle, Camino Part 2

Day 3 of our Camino was when we really started to feel the Camino spirit.  We had spent the night in Pontevedre, an absolutely lovely town we had the pleasure of exploring between rain showers, rest time and meals.  We were now in the rhythm of waking up, getting ready, packing our bags that had to be at the front desk by 8 a.m., eating breakfast and hitting the road.  Apparently, hundreds of other pilgrims were also on the same schedule.  We had our first experience of a mass exodus that morning as we all crossed the bridge and walked through the town and eventually spread out into the countryside.  Sooo many pilgrims, of all ages, wearing various types of rain gear, carrying everything from all of their possessions for the entire Camino to the most minimal crossbody bag.  We jockeyed into our comfortable position eventually...the middle.  It turned out to be a pretty good day.

Morning traffic on the Camino

I found myself wondering where all of the pilgrims had been hiding.  It did not seem like there were that many people in town...where were they all?  By not staying in communal albergues, we did not see the crowds.  One woman I chatted with said she had started the French Camino and bailed after she could never find a room because there were so many pilgrims on that path.  She came down to Porto to do the Portugues Camino instead.  She said she was pleased with her decision.  I must say I have a lot of respect for the women who venture out on the Camino solo.  I am not sure I could or even would do it.  

The day began dark and dreary.  We had a bit of rain but not too bad, until the half hour drenching.  Imagine getting rained on while it is already about 99% humidity and a bit warm.  We were sweating on the inside of our rain gear and soaked on the outside.  This was the day I was very thankful for the pair of dry socks in a ziploc bag in my backpack.  I just knew walking in wet shoes and socks was going to result in blisters and I did not need blisters.  My toes were already bruised from the constant walking.  The good news is that about halfway through the day the weather improved dramatically!  We were treated to some of the most scenic and beautiful paths of the entire Camino.  We herded sheep!  We talked to cows.  We walked through grapevine arbors.  For TJ and I it was one of our favorite days.  I think our friends would not say the same.  They were hurting.  Between the sore feet, the hurting backs and hips from sleeping on rock hard beds not to mention the constant state of being wet from either sweat or rain, their stamina was waning.  But we all did as you do on the Camino.  We just put one foot in front of the other until you get to where you are going.

The muddy trail after the drenching rain.

One of the stops along the way and the point I decided walking the Camino
is a lot like a day or a week skiing.

A stone cross along one of the flattest paths we walked.

One of my favorite parts of the day, walking through grapevine arbors.
Oh...and the blue sky!

Herding sheep along the way!

The day ended in Caldas des Reis.  We quickly found a place for lunch along the river and ordered to our heart's content.  We were hungry!  Again, we had to call a taxi to take us to our accommodations.  The accommodations were amazing!  Set along a river and top notch.  There were not many people staying there, maybe 20.  The rooms were lovely, and the beds were super comfortable for those of us who were suffering from the hard mattresses.  The best thing was that there was a section of the river diverted onto the property and formed a waterfall into their pool.  That beautiful cold water provided TJ and I with some much appreciated and needed ice therapy.  At dinner that night we sat next to our new friends Maria and Juan from that morning in Pontevedra.  We were making Camino friends as we chatted at the large table that night at dinner.  

This was my favorite place along the way...
and the most comfortable bed!

A river runs next to it...

And through it!
Yes, that is my husband under the falls...freezing!

And me, icing my aching knees and feet!

The next morning was...wet.  I also began the day behind everyone.  I woke up late (I'm blaming the comfortable bed), they were ready to go much earlier than I was, so I was scrambling to leave.  This place is also the new home of one of my adapters due to my scrambling.  I ended up spending the entire day...behind everyone and wet.  I just never caught up.  We left with the hordes of other fools/pilgrims who left early.  The closer to Santiago de Compostella you get, the more pilgrims there seem to be.  Also, most of the people staying in albergues leave early so they can make their next destination early enough to get a bed.  Our beds were guaranteed on our Camino Light.  I walked wearing my raincoat, which I was very thankful I packed and am vowing to burn once I get home because I have never gone on a trip and experienced more rain than this one....it must be cursed!  I also wore a rain poncho over everything to cover my backpack and provide extra protection.  It was brutal.  We walked through a National Forest, up and down some steep, muddy trails.  At one point it was so dark in the forest it seemed like night.  It would have been very spooky if I had been alone, but there were many other pilgrims.  I was very thankful once we got out of the forest.   The forest and the challenging hills gave me plenty of opportunities to pray, because at the end of the day, I was wet, sore and struggling to keep up but in the grand scheme of life, these were mere transient inconveniences when so many others in our world suffer from permanent health challenges.  I had nothing to whine about and just kept moving forward.

This was a day we decided to stop for lunch along the way.  We needed a break!  We stopped at an aptly named lunch place, Buen Camino.  I had to best Galacian soup ever!  Warm with chorizo and kale? or cabbage? in a delicious broth!  It again reminded me of lunch stops when we are skiing.  Everyone burns a lot of energy in the morning skiing and battling the cold and then at lunch everyone piles into a restaurant for warm food to keep us going for the rest of the day.  It was that same feeling except instead of cold we were wet!  Similar level of exertion and exhaustion.

After lunch we happened upon a woman who was part of a larger group that we had seen all along our Way and always greeted when we saw each other.  She referred to us as her "Vigo friends".  We walked with her for about an hour and she just talked and talked.  I decided she was one of the reasons I made it through that day.  Listening to her for an hour made the time fly by!  Thank you "Vigo friend"!  Before I knew it, the rain had subsided, and we were closing in on our destination for the night.  Padron.  Famous for Padron peppers which are served roasted with salt and are delicious.

That night we had drinks and dinner with our new friends Maria and Juan and their friends from Australia, Steve and Cheryl.  It was also Maria's birthday, so we celebrated together!  Back in our rooms, our soaked shoes, socks and clothes were scattered around drying...we hoped!  We all went to bed that night praying for better weather and in disbelief that tomorrow would be our last day!  We might just be able to do this!

At least 6 miles of this today.

And then prayers were answered at the end of the day!
The sun came out!

I hope they dry by morning!!!
This had become a nightly ritual.